Sunday, June 28, 2009

A wedding, morning activities, and some history

I apologize for any formatting issues. I am still learning to use Blogger.
This has been home for the last 2 weeks.


Adjusting has not been as easy as I’d hoped. I don’t sleep through the night most nights, and I don’t know why. The heat is still bearable. It was warmer this week than last, but we’re not in the heat much either. The worst is driving through the city in a van without air conditioning. My eyes dry out quickly, not helped by the dust and fumes in the air. Most of my teammates and I developed some kind of allergies or sinus congestion. We’re making it though.

When it comes to laundry, I have 2 options: (1) manual or (2) pay about $10 a week to have someone do it for me. I am not enjoying the manual option. After a couple attempts, I gave in and went to the cleaners down the street. It cost me about $.60 per item. A picture of the bucket I use to do laundry is below.









Interestingly, most people in Chennai seem to prefer being active in the early morning. 6 to 8 am are the busiest times for the clinic, and when my teammate, Katy, and I run at 6:00 am the streets are bustling. There is a park nearby where hundreds of locals go to exercise in the morning. The first time I saw them taking laps around the park, I about fell over. I didn’t know if this was a riot mob or what. They seem to really care about their physical health.










I have noticed many small clinics all over the place. It’s different than in the US where there are a small number of large hospitals. Most businesses seem that way: small shops on every corner, instead of larger, fewer businesses. In terms of healthcare, Indians seem to utilize the hospitals, but they are also just as ready to try alternative remedies, such as herbal medicines. I see a lot of corner health clubs too.


Chennai is surprisingly flat. I don’t think I’ve seen a hill yet.


Working across cultures has been interesting. It is very difficult for me to adapt to this different way of doing things. I am someone who needs structure, but this group requires flexibility, both in schedule and decision-making. I do not know who is supposed to do what nor what my Indian coworkers actually prefer half of the time. Learning to adapt to this will be a more important education for me than the result of our project.




My teammates:

Katy: (on the right) Addicted to coffee, loves Apple products (the computer company), and runs every day. She is my running partner. She is a planner, Type A personality.


Joan: (on the left) She is direct. Very logical and technical. She is oddly calm all of the time and not easily flustered.

Shruthi: (in the middle) always seems willing to help out and very flexible. Her family is from Chennai, and she speaks the local language. She seems like an empathetic person (maybe that's why she is studying sociology) and organized.





An Indian wedding:


I had the chance to visit a wedding here in India. It was a great experience.




In this picture, some kids are literally ripping up the stage for play. It's good this stage won't be used until the second morning of the wedding.











I had the chance to dance with the Indians. The groom actually requested that we join the mix. Luckily, I had some practice at Emory for Indian dancing.




















I got some Indian tea and coffee too. Here they use two cups to cool the coffee, by pouring it back-and-forth.


















The girls use henna as body art, usually on the hands or feet. It is a sort of body paint that last for several weeks. I grabbed some pictures of a girl's hands, which I thought were especially artistic.



































And finally, here is a picture of the actual ceremony. It was at 6:00 am on Sunday (we also went to the reception the previous night, where we danced the night away). In these ceremonies, visitor come-and-go as they please. They are constantly serving food downstairs, and you go there any time during the ceremony for breakfast or a snack. We weren't expecting so much food, so we weren't able to eat much, and the servers were worried we didn't like it.

















Every morning at 6:00 am, this truck comes by to take our sewage. It sounds like a jackhammer.


















Below is a picture of one of the patients we interviewed. He is 91 and travels the world playing music (see picture to the right of him showing him playing some kind of accordion-looking thing). He gave me one of his albums. Indians are very hospitable toward foreigners.

















The next few paragraphs are about religion and history. If you are not history-types, you may want to skip the rest of this post.

I had a couple people comment on whether Hinduism is monotheistic. I am not sure what the answer is. My teamate, Shruthi, quoted from a friend’s research paper that Hinduism is a “polymorphic monotheism”. Does that help?

One of the interesting parts of reading about India’s history is learning about the Aryans. I discovered that a group of people, known as Aryans, moved into India around 1500 BC. They invaded Northern India, and their beliefs seem to have formed a foundation for Hinduism and the caste system. The Hittites in the Bible were related to this group. They originated in Southern Russia/Eastern Europe, and a similar group might have moved from that region west into Europe.

Studying the beliefs about this group is very interesting. Some historians proposed that a superior, “Aryan” race (really a Nordic ethnicity with ancestors who spoke a similar language to the Indo-Aryans who moved into Asia) existed some time in the past. Technically, however, the “Aryan” label is better applied to a group of languages than to a genealogy.

The people who developed this Aryan race theory also used the swastika as a symbol to represent the race. Swastikas In fact, appear in a lot of cultures. You will see the symbol used frequently in Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain cultures, as well as Hittite, Persian, and Greek artifacts. In Eastern religions the symbol just means good luck, and if you travel to India or Buddhist countries, you’ll probably see it.

Interesting asides: Himmler (a Nazi leader) used some of the teaching from a Hindu text (the Bhagavat Gita) to give him confidence that his genocide of Semitic peoples was right. Also, the British used Aryan racism along with the caste system in India to support their right to rule over Indians during the British Raj.

It is always interesting for me to learn about ancient civilizations and cultures and how they lead to current practices and culture.

4 comments:

  1. 1. The accordian type thing is called a harmonium- a cross between a keyed and wind instrument, it is one of the most popular instruments in "Hindustani" (literally Indian, but refers to the combined heritage of the subcontinent) music. It can be thought of as a precursor to the synthesizer.

    2. From an anthropological perspective, Indians belong to one of two races- "Aryans" or "Dravidians". Aryans are generally said to have originated in Central Asia and travelled in all directions. Dravidians were the aboriginal natives of India, some say southern India and there was probably a struggle for power between Aryan settlers and Dravidians. Interestingly, most Hindu religious texts state that the characters were Aryans.

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  2. Thanks Abhishek. I always appreciate your comments. Its great to know so many people who know so much more than I.

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  3. Dear Ezekiel - I enjoyed your comments in your blog about whether Hinduism
    is "monotheistic"? Let me share my perspective on this. The oldest
    written scriptures, the Rig Veda, is a collection of poems, and here below
    is a translation of the "Song of Creation". Put simply, it takes the
    position "we don't know" and also note the line "The gods came
    afterwards....." it all indicates to me that the early conceptualization
    was "agnostic", if anything.

    As the belief system(s) evolved, positions such as, there is an ultimate
    truth (Brahman).......and the entire universe is united within this
    'divinity'.......'all parts of the universe, including humans are
    divine"......etc. developed. I guess some might argue that this stage in
    the development of the belief system may appear "monotheistic" as there is
    the suggestion of a unifying "truth". At the same time, subsequent
    scriptures (of which there are many schools of thought) take a variety of
    positions from agnosticism (there is a Cavaraka school of Vedas that takes
    this view), athesism (pretty much a precusor of Buddhism), diesm,
    polythesism (in that each is free to manifest the divinity in any form or
    shape)......etc.

    So, my take is that, Hinduism is, at its roots, agnostic, but accomodates
    a plurality of beliefs toward the never ending pursuit of the "ultimate
    unifying truth" - but concepts of "Brahman" (ultimate unifying truth) in
    Hindu scriptures avoid absolutionist principles. I hope I have confused
    you further. Enjoy your philosophical questions........I read somewhere
    that "America is obsessed with the individual, Europe with society, and
    India with infinity"......so you are at the right place for these
    explorations about the meaning of life!! - Venkat



    The Creation Hymn of Rig Veda

    There was neither non-existence nor existence then.
    There was neither the realm of space nor the sky which is beyond.
    What stirred?
    Where?
    In whose protection?
    Was there water, bottlemlessly deep?

    There was neither death nor immortality then.
    There was no distinguishing sign of night nor of day.
    That One breathed, windless, by its own impulse.
    Other than that there was nothing beyond.

    Darkness was hidden by darkness in the beginning,
    with no distinguishing sign, all this was water.
    The life force that was covered with emptiness,
    that One arose through the power of heat.

    Desire came upon that One in the beginning,
    that was the first seed of mind.
    Poets seeking in their heart with wisdom
    found the bond of existence and non-existence.

    Their cord was extended across.
    Was there below?
    Was there above?
    There were seed-placers, there were powers.
    There was impulse beneath, there was giving forth above.

    Who really knows?
    Who will here proclaim it?
    Whence was it produced?
    Whence is this creation?
    The gods came afterwards, with the creation of this universe.
    Who then knows whence it has arisen?

    Whence this creation has arisen
    – perhaps it formed itself, or perhaps it did not –
    the One who looks down on it,
    in the highest heaven, only He knows
    or perhaps He does not know.


    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Translation by Wendy Doniger O'Flaherty. From the Book "The Rig Veda - Anthology"

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  4. Dear Ezekiel - You are right about the intermixing of Aryan and Dravidian cultures/religions. Some of the people in South India are among the oldest migrants that left Africa 60-70,000 years ago (until then Africa was the only continent that was inhabited). If you went to some of the remote tribes in Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Kerala (Todas in Ooty, other groups in Karnataka, Kerala), you will still find practices and cultures untouched by Aryan or other influences. The other migration out of Africa at the same time 60-70,000 years ago was to central Asia via the middle-east, and many groups moved from there into India, Russia, China, later Europe. In many ways, what you are seeing in India is a living museum of humanity's collective history.........with all parts preserved in some part or another.

    Below is a passage from Will Durrant, the American philosopher and writer.

    The Case for India (1931)
    India was the motherland of our race, and Sanskrit the mother of Europe's languages: she was the mother of our philosophy; mother, through the Arabs, of much of our mathematics; mother, through the Buddha, of the ideals embodied in Christianity; mother, through the village community, of self-government and democracy. Mother India is in many ways the mother of us all.


    It is true that even across the Himalayan barrier India has sent to the west, such gifts as grammar and logic, philosophy and fables, hypnotism and chess, and above all numerals and the decimal system.

    Venkat

    ---Ezekiel wrote---

    Dear Dr Narayan,

    Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I find them very interesting and helpful as I continue to learn about the culture, religion and philosophies of India.

    When you mentioned Brahman as an evolved concept, I was reminded of the interesting interplay of Aryan philosophies and philosophies that probably existed prior to the Aryans (possibly Dravidian). I understand that some ideas developed into Hinduism over time, including after the Vedas, but these teachings probably predated the Aryan "invasion" and simply took a while to be incorporated.

    Thank you as well for the reference to the PBS video. I think I'll try to find it at Landmark and watch it while I'm here. I shared your thoughts with the team, and they are interested in watching it as well.

    Please continue to comment as you are able.

    Best regards,

    Ezekiel

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